King Restaurant, cool, calm and collected with walls painted creamy-white, blond wood woven cane chairs, white tablecloths and flooded with light from the bare picture windows has become one of my favorite spots. The pared-back decor makes the perfect backdrop for the well thought out and disarmingly complex dishes being served from the tiny kitchen that holds 4.
We first went to King located in Soho, last Fall after we heard that its 2 chefs were previously at The River Cafe, one of our favorite restaurants in London. Chefs Jess Shadbolt and Clare de Boer with skill, care and creativity are preparing different dishes every evening. They're cooking style is from the countryside of Italy and Sardinia and is reminiscent of The River Cafe's rustic off-the-beaten path sensibility.
Their tendency is to create variations on a theme. Guinea hen for instance, is a dish I've had a couple of times and on each occasion it was on point with a different preparation and unexpected ingredient combinations. Operating in sync with the seasons Jess and Clare immediately add new ingredients to existing dishes as they become available. If you go regularly you will get to experience the evolution of certain dishes along with the chefs' vision.
An added bonus is the much sought after outdoor summer seating, but even if you're inside the dining room's so light and airy it's still a delightful dining experience!
Photography David Williams for the New York Times